At a time when the coronavirus is occupying our attentions, thoughts and prayers, it seems right to turn away completely from the topic. As a regular blogger, I don’t want to run out of coherent things to say about the present crisis when it perhaps has barely begun. Much more may need to be said later in the unfolding drama. Today, for a complete change, I want to share with you a personal story, drawing from my own past. It is deliberately nothing whatever to do with the current crisis. It may, however, remind readers of their own experiences of encounters with strangers which have in some way been blessed. My story is an interconnecting narrative with two parts. Each section of the story has a common theme; the narrative depends on a random meeting with complete strangers. My story took place over fifty years ago. Both of the encounters I describe turned out to have enormous, even life-changing significance in my life. In the second meeting it was the life of the other person that was changed even more.
The story that I want to recount, begins with my looking at a picture posted on Facebook as recently as last Sunday. It was a photograph of a church in a small village in a remote area of Southern Italy. I cannot explain at this juncture why this picture of a church in the Greek Catholic tradition, painted internally by an artist from Crete, should have triggered a powerful reaction in me. You will have to wait until the end of both my narratives to understand the significance of the picture and what it represents.
The first of my stories of chance encounters took place in May 1964 in the railway station at Calais port. A boat train had brought me from Victoria station to Folkestone docks. A boat then transported passengers to Calais to connect with various trains on their way to different European destinations. I was to catch the train that would take me to Rome. There I was to stay with a relative by marriage, married to an Italian. This followed my leaving school three months earlier and after this I had filled some time working as a hospital porter. My plans for Italy were vague but the aim was to fill up a chunk of time I had before going to Oxford in the October to begin my study of theology. As I got into the carriage, I was greeted by two ladies in their late sixties. Both were also travelling to Rome. As the journey was to take the best part of thirty hours, we swapped life stories. It turned out that my travelling companions were two very distinguished retired academics who were sisters and who lived in Oxford. The elder of the two was Jocelyn Toynbee, a retired professor of Classical Archaeology at Cambridge. Both the women were going to be staying at the British School of Archaeology in Rome. They were going to be visiting a number of early Christian sites and I would be welcome to join them if I were able. I knew then virtually nothing about early Christian archaeology, but with their guidance, it did not take long to become an enthusiast for ancient mosaics, churches and catacombs of which Rome has a wondrous abundance. The highlight was the opportunity to descend under St Peter to view the simple tomb which encloses what are believed to be St Peter’s bones. The Toynbee sisters returned home after three weeks but I was later invited to see them for tea at their home, having begun my course at Keble College. At some point in my second year I discovered that, as part of my final exams, I could take a special paper in early Christian archaeology. Jocelyn was, of course, there to act as my supervisor. I sometimes found her style of teaching above me and more suitable for a graduate student. Once I had to protest once that a article in German she had recommended was completely incomprehensible to me. But the mere fact of doing this somewhat esoteric course opened up doors for a lifetime interest as well as, for a time, the opportunity to travel.
In the first instance, my local education authority, Kent County Council, gave me a grant to make a trip to Italy to view the various ancient sites that were part of my undergraduate study. I was living in the long-forgotten days when such beneficence still existed. Thus in 1966 I was able to return to Rome as well as visit places like Ravenna and Grado in northern Italy. Also, I was, in the following year, able to apply for and receive a scholarship administered by the Church’s Council for Foreign Relations to study and stay in Greece for up to a year. This turned out to be a 10-month period abroad and I began it soon after my graduation. The aim of the scholarship was to become familiar with the Greek Orthodox church and its monastic life. My special focus was to be on Byzantine Christian art and its links with the liturgy. The studies I undertook in Greece were eventually led to my studying for a second degree, a B. Litt., also at Oxford. It was then that I was able to pull together my interest in liturgy and reflect on the way that early Christian art and architecture interconnects with the act of worship. Traces of this interest remain and as recently as 2013 I was invited to give a talk in Crete to a group of contemporary icon painters.
The meeting with two women on a train journey in 1964 thus led to an amazing sequence of events which have greatly enriched my personal life and my ministry. My interest has not profited the academic world in these areas, since, apart from a number of travel articles, I was only ever able to publish a single paper for an academic journal. Nevertheless my passion for Orthodox iconography and the way that the entire early Christian and Byzantine art tradition has fed my soul is something that I am extremely grateful for. In remembering that encounter long ago, I have to ask the question was it somehow meant? Was there some kind of providence at work? We cannot answer that question, but I am still moved to ask it.
In the next part of this reflection I shall continue with the explanation of how a small Church in Calabria came to be an important part of my personal story. It is also part of the story of the artist who decorated it and how our lives intersected long ago in a small village in Crete. There was a meeting; lives were changed for ever and there are physical monuments in Calabria to celebrate this chance, maybe providential, encounter.
To be continued……..